Taco Truck Review Installment 2: Don Chow Tacos - Mexican Chinese Fusion

One of the things I love about L.A. is the pure variety of things that you can do if you get on a few mailing lists and stay reasonably aware about what is going on. Another thing that fascinates me about L.A. (notice that I didn't use the word "love") is the obsession with fads. Currently the food community is in the Taco Truck Fad, with more launching everyday. Now some appear to be taking this to new levels (like the new Nom Nom truck, which supposedly serves Vietnamese street food), but others are trying to recreate what they know already works, while trying to lend it a few twists. Enter Don Chow Tacos - otherwise known as the attempt to capitalize on the Kogi phenomena by creating Mexican tacos with a Chinese twist. I'd heard about Don Chow before, but, since I refuse to twitter and Don Chow hasn't yet established itself in the way that Kogi has with an actual bar where you can order their food, I hadn't bothered to track it down.
Then one of my list serves organized a tasting with Don Chow and, after corralling some friends and signing up through Pay Pal (12.00), we counted the days 'til we could check it out.

The hot August day finally arrived and, after making sure the beer was secured in a shopping bag in the back seat (along with some unassuming plastic cups), we headed to uncharted territories of downtown L.A. The directions proclaimed that, at one point, we would see a "parking lot of taco trucks", but to proceed past that and park on the street. And it was true. A parking lot of Los Angeles Street Food Heaven. There were the three Kogi trucks (the signs visible above the concrete wall) and countless other unidentifiable taco trucks parked in a city block worth of space. Making a mental note of Roja and Verde, we proceeded down the street where the Don Chow truck was pulled out and setting up shop.

Within half an hour there was a rag tag group of Angelinos of all ages standing on the street waiting for the tasting to begin. Some had brought lawn chairs to park themselves on and others blankets. The true intrepids came only with their empty stomachs. A few people brought cameras so they could photograph the food (including me, although the photos are still sitting on the memory card). As far as we could tell we were the only ones drinking out of gigantic plastic party cups. Ummm - apple cider people, apple cider.

We received a short lecture from the Don Chow guys - super nice USC grads who have day jobs and no formal culinary training, but who decided to launch the taco truck because of their love of food. One of them confessed with a smile that originally they were getting up at 4 a.m. to bake their own bread for the tortas but they soon abandoned that practice in favor of purchasing the bread and getting some more shut-eye. Currently they only operate on weekends.

The truck was your run-of-the-mill taco truck, still adorned with the original menu proclaiming hot dogs and burgers. Just to be clear - there are no burgers or dogs available. We each received a ticket with the tasting menu on it, and lined up for the food. Every time we were handed a new round, the item on the ticket was crossed off. Don Chow is organized!

The items we tried were the following:
ROUND ONE:
A round of tacos containing a Kung Pao Chicken Taco, a Chinese BBQ Pork Taco and a Soy Ginger Shrimp Taco.

The Chinese BBQ Pork taco was a definite hit - perfect flavors of soy, hoisin, ginger and garlic with zing. LOVED it.

The Soy Ginger Shrimp taco was STUFFED with nice sized shrimp that were well cooked and seasoned, though I would have preferred more of a punch of the ginger. Not sure what was Chinese about the avocado topping, but I love avocados so no harm no foul. It was, overall, a nice flavor and the shrimp were delicious. Not sure that the tortilla added anything -- I could just eat a plate of those shrimp.

The Kung Pao Chicken was passable, though I think it could definitely be improved upon. I can't say that there was anything Kung Pao about it. There was basically chicken (tender and of good quality) sautéed in Chinese spices, garlic, and probably some soy, but it missed the mark as far as the Kung Pao goes. It really could have used some scallions, peanuts, and some more spice.

Overall review of the tacos: stick with the Chinese BBQ Pork and maybe a shrimp one and you'll be happy. I think the Kung Pao could be improved upon, but don't bother ordering it until it gets fixed up.

ROUND 2:
1/2 of a Kung Pao Chicken Chamale, 1/2 of a Soy-Ginger Tofu Burrito and 1/2 of a BBQ Pork Torta.

The BBQ Pork Torta was the same filling used in the BBQ Pork taco, except that instead of the tortilla it was sandwiched inside a lovely torta. Don Chow's torta supplier rocks and this was much more successful than Kogi's attempt at a "slider" because the torta was light and not too bready. If you love the pig you'll love the BBQ Pork torta. Just different packaging, but delish all the same. Don Chow has this filling down.

Verdict on the Chamale - the dreaded "okay". The corn cake was really good and moist. Plus, unwrapping a tamale is always a little like unwrapping a present and who doesn't like presents? But the fascination ended after a few bites. The filling was the Kung Pao chicken filling, although it didn't seem as course as the taco filling, maybe because it had been steamed into the tamale so it took on more of a "pulled chicken" texture. The spice was definitely there but again, if you eat something that pronounces itself as "Kung Pao", then you probably have a very different expectation. At the very least, you expect some peanuts. The Pao didn't wow, as far as I'm concerned.

The Soy Ginger Tofu Burrito missed the mark entirely. Really just a refried bean burrito with a chunk of soft tofu thrown in there. No texture to speak of and the whole thing was a mushy mess. I love a good bean burrito as much as anyone, but this one was pretty flavorless. Plus, there was no real reason for the tofu to be in there other than to distract your mouth with a mooshy mushy flavorless goo. Even the yummy salsas on hand (habanero and a verde salsa) couldn't save this one. We all agreed that this one could have been improved if the tofu used had been a super firm tofu that was marinated first and then fried or baked so that it crisped up, thereby offering up some more textures (I should note that the Don Chow guys said they marinated it, but that flavor didn't some through). Really, I think this one requires so much work that it really isn't worth it. If you're a taco truck operator with a vegetarian option, either make sure it is a dish that wows the tastebuds or skip it all together. If it's not good it distracts more from your menu than it would if you just didn't have a veggie option at all.

ROUND 3:
Surprise round of Carne Asada "Chao Fen" (aka "Chow Fun").

This is something that the guys are testing out and, in my opinion, represents where they could really go with this truck. Delicious shahe fen wide rice noodles sautéed in soy sauce, garlic and spices with bits of beef thrown in and served with a fork in a little cardboard box. Greasy, chewy, yummy, flavorful, perfect for a late night post 2AM snack, and definitely something that would end up on the "Must HAVE NOW Craving List." Unfortunately I could only eat two bites because I was so full, but I give this one a big thumbs up.

OVERALL THOUGHTS FOR OUR DON CHOW PALS
I think Don Chow is a good concept, but they need to think a little less about copying Kogi and the Mexican twist and think a little more about really getting fun food with Chinese flavors into the hands of Angelinos. For example, they could shed the typical lettuce/cilantro/onion Mexican taco toppings (which were sort of haphazardly thrown onto the tortillas) in favor of things that would go with the Chinese fillings - peanuts, scallions, sesame seeds, more ginger, etc. They could also get rid of the typical tortilla and maybe use Chinese pancakes - like the ones served with moo shu pork, or a scallion pancake.

Along the same line (and obviously pending an analysis of the cost of ingredients and the difficulty of preparation), they could change up some of the other dishes with more of a Chinese flair - i.e., have a burrito, but fill it with Chinese black bean concoction and maybe some fried rice, for example. They could also make some kicking veggie options with veggies stir-fried in Chinese spices and flavorings and used to stuff a burrito or a taco type dish. A duck option would be amazing, but possibly cost-prohibitive.

I hope these guys succeed because they have a great attitude and I think they are getting more creative with their menu, if the Chow Fun is any indication. If you ever get the chance I encourage you to try them out. And if you're not lucky enough to have a tasting arranged for you, then check them out on Twitter. Plastic party cups with "apple cider" highly recommended.